Survival Training

Recently I was asked to provide pictures of wildlife, icebergs, station life or all things frozen - so I politely provided him with the following photo ...

'All Things Frozen'

Anyhow back to the story -

On arrival at any of the Australian continental Antarctic Stations (Casey, Davis and Mawson) all expeditioners are required to undertake a station induction and a series of survival and field training days which consist of (re) learning the required skills to travel 'safely' within specific areas of the continental stations for work or recreational purposes.

The station induction is in the form of a walk around the station highlighting the various buildings and their purpose to new and returning expeditioners.   All Australian continental station buildings are brightly coloured, affectionately termed as ‘Lego Land’.  The walk incorporates buildings such at the Red Shed (living area), EVS (Emergency Vehicle Station), Green Store (warehouse), mechanical workshop, science building, tank house and other buildings of significance.

Red Shed (and main street)

Workshop to the left & Field Store on the right

EVS on the left & Green Store on the right

 The day our group went out into the field it was a beautiful sunny and windless day.  For those in the group who were first timers to Antarctica, it really didn't provide relevance on how conditions can be here.  Though there are many beautiful sunny days here, there also those days where it can be extremely cold, blows an absolute gale and visibility can be zero.  However the skills taught and practised during the survival training day should allow for the correct procedures to be undertaken if bad conditions were encountered and the expeditioner required going to ground in order to survive.

Before heading off station limits and into the field, first the Antarctic clothing is explained to us.  There is kit and equipment which are required to be worn and to be carried in our backpacks.  

Necessary items to wear are goggles and gloves, woollen thermal underwear (close to the body), insulated layer of fleece clothing (middle layer of clothing) and finally the windproof outer clothing.  

Me wearing the windproof outer clothing (Carhartts)

Cotton clothing is a very poor idea to wear because as we sweat during exertion, the cotton will retain the moisture and you will soon become cold.  Such things as windproof jacket and over-pants, windproof mitts or gloves (and spares), balaclava, goggles, sleeping bag and mat, whistle and signal mirror, compass and map, high energy food, thermos or water bottle, throw bag and finally spikes which fit over the boot. 

Besides those necessary items there are spare clothes to pack, food, water, VHF radio, pee bottle and any other personal items (toothbrush).

Once this had been explained then certain procedures are to be followed before we can leave.  This includes ‘turning your fire tag’ so in case of a fire, you can be accounted for as being off station.  By placing your name tag and those tags of the people accompanying you, writing up where you are going, when you will return and on what VHF channel you will monitor while away would conclude the outcome of this task.

Fire Tag Board (radio console in front)

Then it is up to the radio room, and once again, filling out similar details on the board there informing the on watch communications operator of the callsign you will be using and the nightly sked time.

Then, finally, we move off station limits and into the recreational area.

First lesson – cutting steps into ice cliffs allowing foot holds to allow walking up or down reasonably steep ice mounds.  This requires the use of an ice axe using the adze to cut the ice in a way that allows a foot to sit comfortably while cutting another foot hold and so forth until you have reached the summit or the ground.

Next lesson was crossing the sea ice to Shirley Island.  On the island are numerous Adelie penguin colonies.  However there is usually a channel of water between the station and Shirley Island.  This area will remain frozen for a period of time until it warms up enough to decay and eventually be blown out to sea. 

Sea ice channel between Shirley Island and mainland (picture taken from Shirley Island)

Before proceeding onto the sea ice and crossing it to Shirley Island, radio room is to be informed that the party is about to cross.  Then the ice is to be drilled to check the thickness to ensure it is 40cm or thicker which is the minimum safe thickness to cross by foot.

Sea ice drilling

Once the required thickness had been determined, we then crossed and located an Adelie penguin colony and watched the antics they put on show.  Presently they are returning to the island, building their nests and finally mating.  It is funny to watch them build their nests as the nests are created from small pebbles which they steal from one another’s nests which does cause resentment and the odd biff. 

Adelie Colony

Adelie's nesting on small pebbles

Adelie Penguin

We then returned across the channel and commenced an hour or two of navigating with compass and map.  Though we carry GPS units with us, it is a requirement to understand the features of a map and correctly use a compass to determine the route required to reach a certain point or destination.

Finally we set up camp for the evening.  First we shared a few dry biscuits, with cheese and nibbles.  Then our evening meal consisted of dehydrated food, adding hot water to ensure it was easy to consume.   There were Army ration packs available which had interesting use by dates, but nevertheless tasted okay.  And that was the evening cuisine.

Camp kitchen and dining area

Camp

Preparing the meal

As this was ‘survival training’ we were all required to ‘bivvy’ outside in the open.  Various shelters created from ice were undertaken to ensure if the wind increased during the night that we were adequately covered and protected from the associated ‘chill factor’.   Ice brick walls, igloos, and other various ‘abodes’ were invented. 

Looks comfortable right ?? Right!!!

The 'igloo' as such

Seamus putting on sunscreen before retiring

My bed for the night consisted of me digging out a rectangular hole in the ice, ensuring it was as even as possible and no rock.  I then placed two back packs at one end of the hole and then proceed to pack the ice I had just dug out over the two packs.

My bed before burying the backpacks

My bed with backpacks buried - I dug them out after 2 hours and it formed an enclosure for me

I let the ice form for a few hours and then I dug the two packs out from inside the hole.  Once this was successfully completed I then had a cover over one end of the hole which protected me from the sun (we have 24 hour daylight now) and any wind which may come up during the night.  

It is an effort putting oneself to bed when bivvying out.   First of all you have to place a thin mat inside the bivvy bag, then also place the sleeping bag inside.  Then you select what clothes you are going to sleep in and climb in.  Sound simple??   Nah, trust me.  First you have to pee into the bottle as you really do not want to get out of the sleeping bag during the night.  

Apart from the pee bottle, there is a flour drum with a plastic bag in it to use if that requirement was needed.   The rule is that whoever uses the drum first has to take the contents (in the bag of course) back to station for burning.  No human waste or other grey water (washing up water for example) is allowed to remain behind.

Grey water container - the 'other' container is in the tent

Anyhow, once I have climbed into the sleeping bag liner, then into the sleeping bag and then into the bivvy bag, I drag my back pack in with me, my boots, and anything else which may freeze during the night or get blown away.  It is a useful trick to place socks, underwear, and other clothes in the sleeping bag with you, so that they are warm and unfrozen in the morning. 

The night (ha) is not comfortable, but survivable if this need ever arose.  I woke many times, mainly when rolling over and looking for a comfortable position to lie in, or pushing away my back pack and boots or feeling thin ice falling onto my face from frozen condensation.   And I needed to pee.  Positioning one self (carefully) while in the sleeping bag it is amazing what can be achieved!!

In the morning the wind had come up and attempting to dress correctly (I slept in my thermal underwear, the fleece layer of clothing and beanie) was difficult and very cold.  But the quicker you dress and then throw ice onto your bivvy bag to weigh it down so it won’t blow away, allows me to walk around and warm up.  Once I have warmed up I returned to my bivvy bag and carefully packed everything up into my back pack.   I was unable to take a drink of water as the bottle had froze during the night – lesson learned – place it in the bivvy bag with you when preparing for sleep.

Next blog will be the ‘field training’ where we use the quad bike and travel out further and visit two field huts.

Here is a taste of some of the pictures to expect …..

Adelie Penguin

 I do hope you enjoy the blog.  If anyone has feedback, please leave a message.

'Flying Down'

Interesting concept ‘Flying Down’. 

Flying down??  Flying down to Antarctica for the forthcoming 2011/2012 Australian Antarctic Program.  


In the more recent past sailing down was the norm; beginning of each summer season departing Hobart on a variety of vessels, pushing through the mountainous seas which were usually encountered in the vast Southern Ocean, and once that penance had been served the idyllic pushing through the sea ice taking in the breathtaking beauty of the icebergs that were either floating with the currents or grounded in the firmer sea ice until finally reaching our destination. 

  

I am more used to flying out from Hobart airport into an easterly wind and turning left to head to either Melbourne or Sydney.  

This time, Sunday 30th October 2011, our Airbus A319 turned right to make our way to our pre positioning at the American Antarctic base - McMurdo Station. 


Prior to departure it was interesting that all passengers had to be seated to the rear of the aircraft during take-off from Hobart.   This is believed to have been due to the weight distribution in relation to where the aircraft's spare fuel tanks were located on the aircraft.  Nevertheless the takeoff went off without a hitch and most passengers then made their way to the seats at the front of the aircraft. 

Inside the A319

During the flight, expeditioners were (re) introduced to the Southern Lights.  A fabulous aurora lasting a little over an hour lit up the horizon into which we were travelling.

Four hours later we were advised it was time to dress into our Antarctic clothing prior to our anticipated arrival at the American Antarctic continental station.  All expeditioners were carrying (or wearing) their issued Antarctic clothing for the freezing conditions of Antarctica which had to be donned before stepping from the aircraft.   From there the plan was to climb aboard a C130 Hercules aircraft bound for the Australian station - Casey.  

But as is usually the case, all the meticulous planning, scheduling and organisation came unstuck due to the harshAntarctic climate.  As we landed onto the ice runway it was evident that the weather was closing in fast from the east with poor visibility and blowing snow on the horizon to welcome our arrival.  In less than 15 minutes the poor weather was upon us.

The A319 at William Airfield McMurdo Station

Welcoming sign to McMurdo Station

Disembarking the aircraft, fully clad in Antarctic clothing, we boarded a 'tracked' vehicle and taken to the ‘mess’ hall to await further instructions and direction on the anticipated flight to Casey.    Breakfast was available for those expeditioners who were hungry (the time was 0530), while others commenced bonding with those Caseyites they had not met during the induction period at the Australian Antarctic Division in Kingston, Tasmania. 


The card game ‘500’ was suggested with a few takers participating in the game.  Others read, dozed and generally just ‘hurried up and waited’.   An hour later we were informed that the weather had indeed closed in around the station and that we would not be travelling any place soon.  We were then taken to our sleeping quarters (24 blokes in one dormitory) in this huge and peculiar shaped vehicle, and then provided bedding and told to settle in.

The Dormitory - top left hand side housed all 26 of us - cosy 

All up we were only at McMurdo station for 2 days.  The Americans were friendly and accommodating towards their Australian invaders.  Their meals were very good (contrary to popular belief there is no Macca's or Hungry Jacks).  We were given excellent guided tours of McMurdo Station, the New Zealand research station Scott Base, and also Discovery Hut (which was built by Robert Falcon Scot during the Discovery Expedition of 1901-1904).  

Discovery Hut with McMurdo Station in the background

One side of the hut filled with ice

Me at the rear of the hut

The chance to partake in a beer and conversation with other patrons occurred on the second night as each week they close their bars on a Monday.  This was unfortunate, as I am a Halloween baby and was unable to celebrate (yet) another birthday.

McMurdo is the largest Antarctic base (anywhere from 900 to 1300 expeditioners) with regular flights in and out usually via Christchurch, New Zealand.   Additionally there are regular flights to the South Pole where they have a base.  One area on the station which made me look twice was the use of overhead power lines.
On the Australian stations our cabling is below ground or run over metal trays just above the ground.  But the Americans had all their power lines hanging overhead.   There was a fire brigade, church (Chapel of the Snows), and plenty of USAF personnel and scientists running around.

Those damned power lines!!

 McMurdo station is located on the southern tip of Ross Island and close to the Dry Valleys.   It is located about 3 kilometres from Scott Base, the New Zealand science station, and the entire island is located within a sector claimed by New Zealand, though this claim is not recognized by most countries.   Recently there has been criticism levelled at the base regarding its construction projects, particularly the McMurdo - (Amundsen-Scott) South Pole highway.  

'Ivan' the Terra Bus

Anyhow after 2 days of being 'stranded’ at McMurdo station word went around that the weather was improving and that at Casey the weather conditions suited flying conditions.  So after a mad rush to get bags packed, beds stripped and a clean of the dormitory, all of us were on ‘Ivan’ the Terra bus and heading to Williams airfield once more.  After a wait of an hour or so, the Hercules aircraft was ready and we boarded (ear plugs fitted) and took off for Casey.

 Our ride to Casey

  Not quite 'Emirates Business Class' inside the C130

After take off we were given fabulous views of the picturesque Dry Valleys.  This was an amazing experience for both new comers to Antarctica and to 're offenders'.   Just outstanding scenery!!  The glacier tongues creeping down the valley slopes and large frozen lakes were just awe inspiring.

Approximately four hours later we arrived to a beautiful sunny, cloud and windless day at Casey station.

Casey Station 

It was good to be back.