Friday, 18 November 2011

'Flying Down'

Interesting concept ‘Flying Down’. 

Flying down??  Flying down to Antarctica for the forthcoming 2011/2012 Australian Antarctic Program.  


In the more recent past sailing down was the norm; beginning of each summer season departing Hobart on a variety of vessels, pushing through the mountainous seas which were usually encountered in the vast Southern Ocean, and once that penance had been served the idyllic pushing through the sea ice taking in the breathtaking beauty of the icebergs that were either floating with the currents or grounded in the firmer sea ice until finally reaching our destination. 

  
I am more used to flying out from Hobart airport into an easterly wind and turning left to head to either Melbourne or Sydney.  

This time, Sunday 30th October 2011, our Airbus A319 turned right to make our way to our pre positioning at the American Antarctic base - McMurdo Station. 


Prior to departure it was interesting that all passengers had to be seated to the rear of the aircraft during take-off from Hobart.   This is believed to have been due to the weight distribution in relation to where the aircraft's spare fuel tanks were located on the aircraft.  Nevertheless the takeoff went off without a hitch and most passengers then made their way to the seats at the front of the aircraft. 


Inside the A319
During the flight, expeditioners were (re) introduced to the Southern Lights.  A fabulous aurora lasting a little over an hour lit up the horizon into which we were travelling.

Four hours later we were advised it was time to dress into our Antarctic clothing prior to our anticipated arrival at the American Antarctic continental station.  All expeditioners were carrying (or wearing) their issued Antarctic clothing for the freezing conditions of Antarctica which had to be donned before stepping from the aircraft.   From there the plan was to climb aboard a C130 Hercules aircraft bound for the Australian station - Casey.  

But as is usually the case, all the meticulous planning, scheduling and organisation came unstuck due to the harshAntarctic climate.  As we landed onto the ice runway it was evident that the weather was closing in fast from the east with poor visibility and blowing snow on the horizon to welcome our arrival.  In less than 15 minutes the poor weather was upon us.


The A319 at William Airfield McMurdo Station


Welcoming sign to McMurdo Station
Disembarking the aircraft, fully clad in Antarctic clothing, we boarded a 'tracked' vehicle and taken to the ‘mess’ hall to await further instructions and direction on the anticipated flight to Casey.    Breakfast was available for those expeditioners who were hungry (the time was 0530), while others commenced bonding with those Caseyites they had not met during the induction period at the Australian Antarctic Division in Kingston, Tasmania. 


The card game ‘500’ was suggested with a few takers participating in the game.  Others read, dozed and generally just ‘hurried up and waited’.   An hour later we were informed that the weather had indeed closed in around the station and that we would not be travelling any place soon.  We were then taken to our sleeping quarters (24 blokes in one dormitory) in this huge and peculiar shaped vehicle, and then provided bedding and told to settle in.

The Dormitory - top left hand side housed all 26 of us - cosy 
All up we were only at McMurdo station for 2 days.  The Americans were friendly and accommodating towards their Australian invaders.  Their meals were very good (contrary to popular belief there is no Macca's or Hungry Jacks).  We were given excellent guided tours of McMurdo Station, the New Zealand research station Scott Base, and also Discovery Hut (which was built by Robert Falcon Scot during the Discovery Expedition of 1901-1904).  


Discovery Hut with McMurdo Station in the background
One side of the hut filled with ice

Me at the rear of the hut
The chance to partake in a beer and conversation with other patrons occurred on the second night as each week they close their bars on a Monday.  This was unfortunate, as I am a Halloween baby and was unable to celebrate (yet) another birthday.

McMurdo is the largest Antarctic base (anywhere from 900 to 1300 expeditioners) with regular flights in and out usually via Christchurch, New Zealand.   Additionally there are regular flights to the South Pole where they have a base.  One area on the station which made me look twice was the use of overhead power lines.
On the Australian stations our cabling is below ground or run over metal trays just above the ground.  But the Americans had all their power lines hanging overhead.   There was a fire brigade, church (Chapel of the Snows), and plenty of USAF personnel and scientists running around.


Those damned power lines!!
 McMurdo station is located on the southern tip of Ross Island and close to the Dry Valleys.   It is located about 3 kilometres from Scott Base, the New Zealand science station, and the entire island is located within a sector claimed by New Zealand, though this claim is not recognized by most countries.   Recently there has been criticism levelled at the base regarding its construction projects, particularly the McMurdo - (Amundsen-Scott) South Pole highway.  


'Ivan' the Terra Bus

Anyhow after 2 days of being 'stranded’ at McMurdo station word went around that the weather was improving and that at Casey the weather conditions suited flying conditions.  So after a mad rush to get bags packed, beds stripped and a clean of the dormitory, all of us were on ‘Ivan’ the Terra bus and heading to Williams airfield once more.  After a wait of an hour or so, the Hercules aircraft was ready and we boarded (ear plugs fitted) and took off for Casey.


 Our ride to Casey

  Not quite 'Emirates Business Class' inside the C130

After take off we were given fabulous views of the picturesque Dry Valleys.  This was an amazing experience for both new comers to Antarctica and to 're offenders'.   Just outstanding scenery!!  The glacier tongues creeping down the valley slopes and large frozen lakes were just awe inspiring.




Approximately four hours later we arrived to a beautiful sunny, cloud and windless day at Casey station.


Casey Station 

It was good to be back.

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